Tromso - the last post

We are now in Tromso, 400 km north of the Arctic Circle, latitude 69 degrees north. Tromso is the last post (of any significant size) in Norway.  It has a university with a buzzing student population.  It is a tourist centre in summer   (midnight sun) and winter (Northern lights, plus lots of X-country skiing).  It is set with a back drop of snow-capped peaks. We have been cooking our evening meals - with salmon on special at $11 a kilo (!!)  guess what's been on the menu every night?

Prior to driving here yesterday we had 2 days on Senja Island, on the way here from the Lofoten islands. We explored the island by car, but due to a small car accident, did not get time to hike.

 Our driver did not see a concrete barrier at the entrance to the lookout car park. It had quite a drop on the other side and we flattened one tyre and caused a bulge in another.  With not even one spare tyre we called Avis for help. Over 2 hours later we got towed, and the tyres were replaced next morning.  Dinner ended up being at 11 pm  :-(

 Waiting for the ferry off Senja towards Tromso - perfect weather all day

 aboard the ferry

 arrival in Tromso

 Today we did a 200 km trip east of Tromso, driving past 1600m high mountains.

It was a bit cloudy so the peaks were hidden.

 poppies flowering near our lunch spot

 the others agree to a short hike alongside the fast flowing glacial stream

 a garden back in the village where the walk started

 views from the car heading back to Tromso

 Tromso

 Tromso Botanic Alpine Gardens - it's quite amazing what they can 

get to grow this far north.  They have plants from all continents.

This is my last post for the blog.  Tomorrow the Sheards fly to Bergen, and we fly to London.  We then have 21 hours there (the plan is to visit Greenwich) before the horrible flight home - about 22 hours including a 2 hour transit in Dubai.  We arrive 530 am in Melbourne on Monday.  Any volunteers to pick us up?

Midnight Sun Hiking

The "midnight sun" refers to the concept of the sun dipping to the horizon, touching it, but not dipping below it, before rising again. This occurs perfectly on June 21st right on the Arctic Circle, but even either side of that date and north of the Arctic Circle the effect is almost the same.

So who spotted the gross error in my last post?  I talked about having to go to a west facing beach to view the midnight sun.  But if the sun went down in the west how could it immediately start rising in the east?  Of course it couldn't.  Its low point is actually in the north.  So on Sunday we headed to Hov, a north facing beach on Lofoten.  We arrived at midnight to see some golfers playing (a mere $135 for 9 holes on an uninspiring course).

We partly hiked up the mountain in the first photo, to get better views.  We hiked from midnight to 1 pm.  There was much discussion about how close to the horizon the sun would get. Graeme thought that the fact that we were 2 degrees above the Arctic Circle would be cancelled out by the fact that we were a week past the shortest day, and the sun would still touch the horizon.  But when we left near 1:15 am the sun seemed to have not moved since our arrival at midnight. So Judy and I think his hypothesis is wrong.

 Putting with my hiking pole just after 1 am

 Driving home - now after 1:30 am

Leaving Lofoten

Yesterday we had a long drive NE, including one ferry, to get to Senja Island.  It is Norway's scond largest island and reputed to have spectacular scenery.  We are about to head out and see.

Long Days in the Lofoten Isands

We met up with Judy and John in Trondheim and flew north to the Lofoten Islands yesterday.  It was a spectacular flight in perfect weather.  The views were to die for. We then drove almost 200 km SW down the islands to reach our accommodation at Henningsvaer.  We had to put up with scenery like this on the way:

The traffic moves slowly on Lofoten due to the narrow windy roads, and there were so many motor homes on the road, plus some road works and an accident to slow us down. Finally we arrived at our nice apartment in Henningsvaer.

 This is the view from our balcony

 Main part of Henningsvaer - home to many art galleries

Today we headed about another 120 km south to the last island accessible by car (there are 2 more accessible by boat only). We made many scenic stops along the way.  The final town we visited is called A (with a small circle over the A, pronounced like a short O sound).  I doubt there's another town with the same name anywhere in the world.

 the fields are ablaze with yellow flowers

 we visited a glass blowing workshop here

 the preserved historical fishing village of Nusfjord

 The dried cod was removed from the racks some time recently, but the fish heads remain. Fishing, especially cod, is the main industry here.

 

 racks and racks of drying fish heads - they are sent to 

Nigeria to be used in a local delicacy

 the stunningly beautiful setting of the town Reine

We returned home late and ate at 10 pm.  We abandoned the idea of driving to see the midnight sun today - we face east here with mountains blocking the view to the west, and we need to be on the west to see it.  We may try again another day.  Lofoten is the best place for viewing the midnight sun as it is almost right on the Arctic Circle.  It's now 1230am here and still bright daylight, but John has fallen asleep on the couch, so I guess it's time for bed.

Andalsnes - close to so much amazing scenery

Yesterday we drove here from Alesund, via Molde - more island hopping involving multiple ferries. We spent the afternoon driving the Trollstigen road (Troll's ladder).  The Norwegians are very big on trolls. So many place names start with "Troll", and they have ugly trolls at many tourist shops.  Trollstigen must be one of the world's greatest roads. There are 11 hairpin bends to the top.  The road crosses in front of a huge water fall.  The valley you drive up is a classic glacial carved valley:

I could not visit Norway without doing at least one serious hike. Today I abandoned Graeme, and broke all the rules of bushwalking by hiking Romdalseggen alone. This is not a walk for anyone with a fear of heights.  Part of the walk involves walking along a narrow rocky ridge with drops off to both sides.  The views were great even though the sun did not come out all day.  It took me 7 hours; spot on that advised by the hostel.  I am now recovering - the worst was the 1200m descent, seemingly never ending.

 the view about 30 minutes into the initial ascent

 from here the track ascends over rocks up to the ridge

 nearly at the ridge top - the red splotches mark the way

 it's early in the season and there was a lot of snow to trudge through

 this is not a view off to the side - it's the track on the ridge line

 the ridge goes up and down a bit - note the red markers

 Looking at back at where I've just walked. Parts were much steeper than the photos can capture. Two men were here cementing metal poles into the rock so more chain could be installed as help.

 The worst is over.  After this gentle ascent through snow there 

was just a long steep slog back down to Andalsnes.

Great hike!  Great day.  Tomorrow we leave here on yet another scenic route - the Rauma Valley to Dombas.  Then onto Trondheim to meet Judy and John and celebrate my birthday (hopefully).